Paperback: 256 pages
Publisher: Mountain & Sea; Reprint edition (June 1, 1993)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 0962941824
ISBN-13: 978-0962941825
Product Dimensions: 1 x 6.2 x 9.2 inches
Shipping Weight: 5.6 ounces
Average Customer Review: 4.8 out of 5 stars See all reviews (26 customer reviews)
Best Sellers Rank: #530,864 in Books (See Top 100 in Books) #15 in Books > Sports & Outdoors > Outdoor Recreation > Snowboarding #122 in Books > Sports & Outdoors > Outdoor Recreation > Surfing #283 in Books > Arts & Photography > Music > Biographies > Country & Folk
I lived in San Diego from 1964-67. One of my memories was of Mike Doyle coming to WindanSea when he was the world's top-rated surfer. As a 12 year old, the thing I remember most was the gorgeous girls following him around.When I heard about this book, I thought it might be interesting to see what happened to him. This is a great book from a man who has led an interesting life. For those of us who were in California when surfing culture first hit the world, this book means a lot. What is really interesting is hearing Mike talk about the times and how he was right in the middle of the culture. It was so carefree back then. It's amazing how many critical surfing "events" he was involved in. Almost like surfing's Forrest Gump. It was also interesting hearing him survive the 70s.The book talks about how Mike has had some downs over the years. Frankly, I wish he had delved more into his personal life.It ends with Mike being the ultimate surfer and continuing to lead his life in Mexico. I found his email address and expressed my satisfaction from the book. He was polite enough to answer in the "Mike Doyle" persona.If you want to know what the surfing culture was really like, read this book.
I was a gremlin at 42nd street in the late fifties,mans early sixties. I knew a lot of the folks in this story. I lived across the street from Majeck, in Del Rey. it is precious to me that this is in print...story told, and shared. Old way , good way! Thanks Mike
Mike covers many years of surfing lore and growing up on the california coast. im deeply moved by this work, jealous of the first hand look at the surfer's world MIke was able to have,,,i really wish the scene was still there for us to enjoy.
At first I was a bit skeptical that this might be another droaning surfer's story that would go nowhere. Boy was I pleasantly suprised! I found this to be quite humorous and touching. His drive to follow what he loved doing was most inspiring. This book answered a deep question I had for many years about surfing - it is art. I surfed for more than 20 years, (as well as the other "waterman" activities) full time, without truly understanding what it meant to be connected to the ocean and ultimately (in my case) to the creator, God. Thank you Mike for sharing your story and insight about you and your friends. I have broken out of a 15 year sabbatical and entered the water again with a totally differnt outlook. As they say in Mexico - "la vida es corta"... LIFE IS SHORT! So get on with your dreams before you wake up and say I wish I had.... Read this book whether you surf or not.
As a young surfer growing up in the 60's I could relate to the stories and adventures Mike Doyle experienced. He was one of surfing's elite and hung out with the greatest surfers of the time. This book was honest and his life definitely had it's ups and downs. This read was especially memorable to me as I was familiar with the top surfers mentioned in the book and was able to view them through Mike's eyes. I would recommend this book to both surfers and non surfers although for non surfers I would rate it 4 stars.I also read Sorensen's book, "Heap of Bones" which was an interesting read too but I felt Morning Glass was better.
I started surfing in the early/mid 80's. This is a great book about a time of the surfing pioneers and legends. Mike Doyle writes in an entertaining style. Some of the stories, such as the first Peruvian Invitational, made me laugh out loud. You don't have to be a surfer from the 50's or 60's, or even a surfer at all, to truly enjoy this book. One of my all time favorite books. The updated version sounds even better than the original.
A heart-felt authentic biography of a sixties-era surfing icon, who, despite his accomplishments as a competitive surfer, is forever looking to embrace and celebrate the soul of the sport, tracing that fine line that only a stoked out surfer knows so well, the line that divides humility taught by an all-conquering sea, and the pride of knowing one's prowess in said sea far surpasses that of 99.9 percent of the world's population.Author Mike Doyle grew up traversing the bi-polar, Hawaii/California epicenter of surfing culture of the 1960s, his beach bronzed body epitomizing the clean-cut athleticism that graced many magazine photo pages of the day, a refreshing relief from the goof-ball image that had begun the decade with the Beach Blanket movies.Doyle was the real thing, a So Cal kid with a beach for a playground and a sea to compel him to become an all around waterman and top ranked contest surfer of his era.Read this book to get a first person account of west coast surfing culture history in the era when longboards ruled, but a stoke was brewing that would launch a million short boards and a billion dollar surfing industry, that was only a gleam in the author's eye during the halcyon days, and the author transitions to a new role, ala Gaugin, as an ex-patriot surfer/painter stationed within striking distance of waves at the tip of Baja California.
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